What: A casual neighborhood restaurant and wine bar located near Hackney Central overground that has taken over the space previously occupied by the renowned fine dining establishment Pidgin. While it serves as a spiritual successor to Pidgin—operated by much of the same team—it has shifted from a tasting menu-only approach to a vibrant and diverse à la carte menu.
Who: Sesta marks the first solo restaurant venture for friends Drew Snaith and Hannah Kowalski. They met early in their careers at Jackson Boxer’s Brunswick House and later managed Pidgin as head chef and general manager, respectively. Many of Pidgin’s original staff remain, including sous chef Ben Ing and general manager Majalis Lundstrom Celedon.
The food: Snaith has crafted a menu that mixes elevated comfort food—such as ‘nduja-scotched olives and beef ragu toasties with dripping brown sauce—and more refined dishes without any pretentiousness. Other tapas-style plates feature prawn and stone bass dolma with ouzo butter, and chicken fat carrot with pickled plum and crispy wind sausage, while larger plates include chicken leg with bacon prune stuffing and turbot with hot-smoked brandade. The dining experience maintains a playful atmosphere, backed by solid culinary foundations, as Snaith honed his skills at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons.
To drink: Kowalski’s wine list is concise, with limited storage on site, featuring about 60 selections heavily skewed towards European wines, particularly from France. Prices start at £8 per glass and £38 per bottle, with the list expected to change frequently. The cocktail menu includes options like Mezcal Negroni and Blackberry Juice, and there are plans to produce mead in the future.
The vibe: The layout preserves much of Pidgin’s design, featuring a refreshed 26-cover interior with dark blue walls accented with gold, dark wood tables, and local artwork. The terrace has also received updates, while the compact front and back-of-house areas are efficiently managed.
And another thing: The name Sesta originates from an old English term for a large wine vessel. As noted in the etymology podcast Something Rhymes with Purple—which Snaith learned about—the rule is that no one can leave the table until the Sesta is empty.
52 Wilton Way, London E8 1BG
www.sesta.co.uk
