Santiago Lastra is radiating pride as he awaits the opening of Fonda, his new contemporary Mexican restaurant in Mayfair, set to debut in a month. At the moment, it appears ready for customers, highlighting the rarity of such ambitious Mexican dining experiences in the UK, especially one that seems ahead of schedule.
This accomplishment is particularly fulfilling for Lastra, who faced significant challenges when he opened KOL, a fine dining Mexican restaurant, in October 2020. Just as the first wave of COVID restrictions eased, KOL encountered delays due to venue issues and the uncertainty of subsequent lockdowns. Lastra describes the launch of KOL as a baptism by fire, admitting, “I didn’t know how difficult it was to open a restaurant in London,” reflecting on the hurdles he faced, including the pandemic, Brexit, strikes, and the cost-of-living crisis.
Despite the challenges, KOL became a remarkable success, earning a Michelin star in 2022 and ranking 17th in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, making it the highest-rated UK restaurant on that prestigious roster.
Lastra aims for Fonda to reflect the evolution of Mexican cuisine, drawing inspiration from traditional family-owned restaurants known as fondas in Mexico. Fonda represents KOL’s more approachable sibling, and while initially planned alongside KOL, it was delayed to ensure a focused launch for both concepts.
After two years of searching for a location and refining his culinary vision, Fonda is set to open, showcasing a menu distinct from KOL. Lastra acknowledges that his early concepts felt forced; he was focused on KOL and struggled to create casual dishes that stood apart from those offered at his flagship restaurant. Today, Fonda presents a menu that offers recognizable yet refined Mexican flavors.
The dining experience at Fonda features dishes that resonate with Mexican culture, such as slow-cooked short rib with mole poblano, confit pork shoulder carnitas, and quesadillas made with Oaxaca cheese and truffles. Lastra aims to evoke nostalgia with these offerings, emphasizing that the menu remains rooted in everyday Mexican fare.
Fonda also highlights Lastra’s creative freedom, allowing him to express different aspects of his culinary identity. He describes the restaurant as an opportunity to showcase home-cooked dishes elevated to a dining experience.
At KOL, the focus has shifted to sourcing exclusively British ingredients, leading to innovative preparations like hemp seed ice cream and guacamole. Lastra believes that limitations foster creativity and is committed to pushing the boundaries of Mexican cuisine in London.
Lastra recognizes the challenges of introducing fine dining Mexican cuisine to the UK market, especially after previous attempts faltered. His vision is to elevate perceptions and demonstrate that high-quality Mexican food deserves a place in the fine dining scene. He is optimistic about the trajectory of Mexican cuisine in the UK, believing it is on the verge of a breakthrough moment as diners become more aware of authentic, high-quality offerings.
In summary, Santiago Lastra’s journey reflects his dedication to redefining Mexican cuisine in the UK, already making significant strides with KOL and now aiming to expand that influence through Fonda. His approach combines creativity, cultural authenticity, and a commitment to quality that could well signal a new era for Mexican dining in London.
